Panel Labeling Using Laser Jet Slide-On Decals
By Emmet Welch

In the seemingly endless yet thoroughly stimulating process of planning may panel, I had deliberated with myself at length on how best to label stuff.  There are, of course, lots of ways to skin this cat, and I considered just about all of them – each new one becoming my “favorite” until my next idea happened along.

Pretty soon, I was so wrapped up in other details that I kind of forgot about labeling – to the point that I kind of had to do it as an afterthought.  This directed me towards my eventual method, but actually turned out to be really cheap, simple and very flexible if you have some creative ideas.

 There are a couple limitations which I should mention up front: 

• You are really limited to light colored panels with this method.  The label is clear and therefore your lettering is either dark on your light panel color, or if you have a shape like I did, the letter is the reversed out, non-printed part that shows your panel color beneath.  If you had a color laser I guess you could do colored lettering, but it has to show up on your panel

• You have to clear coat your panel.  The labels are not durable unless something protects them on top.  I hadn’t originally planned to clear coat my panel, but in the end liked the way it looked and I'm glad that I did.

Materials….Laser-Jet slide-on labels are available through several outlets.  I bought mine on Amazon, from a reseller called Kustom Rides.  They have lots of tips on their website as well. I think I paid like $9 for five 8 ½ x 11 sheets.  These are really just the labels we all used as kids (or last week) on our plastic models. 

I also bought a decal squeegee, but you don’t need one.  A smooth edge credit card works, or a plastic squeegee used for bondo work is fine 

Clear coat – I used a basic automotive 1 part clear coat to coat the label before application (more later), and found this for the panel, which seemed to work really well – it’s a two part in a special can that you just “pop” to release the catalyst and shake.  Pretty cool!  You want a urethane final clear coat for durability – at least I did. 

Oh, you need some water. 

Method… 

• Set up and print your labels in a laser jet.  Simple.  They will have that flat laser ink look – that’s fine.

• Coat the label on the sheet with 2 coats of a cheap clear coat (or expensive clear coat if you have lots of money)

• Get a new, sharp Exacto blade or scissors and cut out your label.  THIS IS IMPORTANT:  The label material is slightly visible after all applied and clear coated, so only leave what you really need of the label, and/or cut the same shape/size for most of the labels.  This will yield the most consistent look. 

• When the panel is painted, clean and ready, slip the decals in water for a few seconds until it releases, and slide off onto your panel.  It works best to wipe your panel w/ a clean sponge to wet it and allow the decal to be slid around for positioning.  Practice this a bit on a dummy piece. 

• Squeegee out the air bubbles.  It takes a bit of patience, but you can get them out.  Careful not to put too much force on the label as it will stretch/tear.

• When you have all the bubbles out, set aside to dry for at least 24hrs

• Clear coat the panel with your 2-part urethane clear coat

• Admire you work…

Here are some photos of the results:

As I was designing a label that had a shape to it to match my carbon inlays in my panel, this labeling method was really flexible for being creative. 

Also, as this is clear coated, they are quite durable.  As durable as your clear coat! 

All in all, I am very happy with the results.  You will also find yourself looking around for other things to apply labels too.  Like putting your N-Number on the back of your iPhone so you can tell it apart from your wifes ;)